Riding at last - the first day

Astoria to Nehalem Bay State Park: 43 miles.

Self portrait at Astoria, Oregon

When a young cyclist asked how far I was going, I replied simply, “California”. And at that exact moment, with that one declaration, this bike trip transformed from vaporous, intangible wishes and desires to something real and living; like tissue and bone and breath.

He was replacing his tire and tube at the bike shop in Seaside, Oregon after running over a screw and walking into town. I was ready to clip into my pedals after a chain repair. The realization that I was biking to California created one of those “Holy Shit” Moments, like, “I’m doing what?”. Gilbert Gottfried (the parrot in the Disney movie, “Aladdin”), was shouting in my ear, “What was I thinking!” California was only 390 miles away (depending on which measure you use) minus the 20 I’d just pedaled to Seaside (or limped to Seaside is more accurate, given the chain separation that happened as I left Astoria). Lesson: if you carry a chain tool, which I did, carry a chain link to do the repair too. Doh!

But the committing word “California” had been uttered to this stranger; the proverbial stake driven in the sand, and I was on the road after days of doubt and questioning of sanity gnawing at me across Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon (Oh, yeah, Marsha will attest: I was pretty difficult to live with for a few days there). We'd parked the car in Astoria so she biked to Seaside and shuttled back to the car by bus while I rode on. The first one to the Airstream at Nehalem Bay would start dinner! (it was I, surprisingly).

Jim atop Arch Cape.
Three Capes Route and tomorrow's ride is behind.

Later that day after passing through Cannon Beach I stopped to photograph (in addition to the gorgeous beaches and famous sea stacks) an interesting house under construction on the climb up to Arch Cape, about 1,000 feet from sea level (which was, of course, "right down there!"). I was told that it is in its third year of construction and is essentially a very hand-crafted house. Uses all natural materials (“no sheetrock anywhere”) and custom hand-crafted millwork throughout, with much natural stone and brick. The roof above the steel beams is overgrown with mosses because it has had three years to weather in, not because it’s an old roof and this is a remodel. You can look straight through the glass walls from the road to the ocean.

Other highlights of Day One:

• We needed to go easy the first day; not burn the legs out; back off on the pace; drink and eat often (before you are thirsty or hungry). We did, and that really helped get through the days of longer miles.
• Stop and take photos and read historical markers. I did that – until the rains came. Learned how Cannon Beach got its name (from a cannon washed ashore near Tillamook from the wrecked military frigate “Shark”). And how the Lewis and Clark expedition bought some very welcome whale blubber from friendly Indians at Tillamook during their winter stay on the coast.
• Pedaled through the first of two tunnels on the coast route that have special flashing lights to warn drivers there are cyclists in the tunnel. This was at Arch Cape, right past Cannon Beach.
• Learned that 1,000 feet of climbing is still 1,000 feet of climbing whether it’s at sea level or above Denver’s 5,280 feet. Yes, having ridden at altitude made a difference I think, and the breathing was easier than, say, at 7,000 feet outside Bergen Park, near Evergreen. But a hill is a hill is a hill.